October heat in Gujarat

Our routine was set in a couple of days. We would always promise ourselves to start early but end up getting up by 8 or 9 and within an hour of packing and tying the luggage would be off right at the time when sun is high.

Zarwani forest lodge, Narmada, Gujarat

The trip was more Zen and art of tying the luggage. In October we had left with 2 sleeping bags, One big backpack, a smaller backpack and of course camera bag on us at all times. Tying the luggage on the bike used to take us at least 20-30 mins in the begining which was reduced to flat 7 min by the end of the lap. Usually the tying ritual would attract a small crowd around us with a list of questions. Some of the time that would end up in a meaningful discussion but more often than not it would just delay the start time. On top of that if both of us had decided to tie the bags our independent ways then there would be a nice verbal fight entertaining the crowd.

Once on the road ten mins is all it would take us to be in good spirits. Endless road is magical - it takes one into a complete meditative trance only to be interrupted by the herds of cattle or deep potholes. In Gujarat by 11 the heat would be unbearable. We would take a break every hour and gulp down a litre of chaas. After lunch by 2 pm it would be unbearable and we would look for a classic nap spot. On the way to Kachch was the hottest stretch where even trees had disappeared and all that was left was dust, thorny bushes and scorching heat.Our ropes touching the exhaust pipe gave way somewhere and we lost a sleeping bag with our shoes in it. Just to retrieve the shoes we headed back in search and 20 km away saw a completely burnt sleeping bag but with shoes intact.

Afternoon siesta

A rabari home, Chatadia, Gujarat

Windmills on the way to Porbander, Gujarat

Bumlas drying at Jafarabad, Gujarat

In the belly of the beast - 135 footer at Porbander

All my life I had never considered my sense of belonging to be tied intricately with a language. But in Gujarat language was a big connector - it immediately established intimacy and also a right to demand the same from others. In the beginning we would politely refuse invitation to tea, food but soon realised that it was taken as a rude gesture. Soon we started stopping and accepting invitations to various homes.

Infrastructure in Gujarat was really great. Not just roads but electricity, water supply and sanitation was made available to many of the remote places. All the off grid villages were given solar panels and the entire Saurashtra coast was lined by windmills. The only terrible highway was National highway 8E that goes parallel to the coast. Luckily for us we abandoned it soon after Una near Diu for the local internal roads.

The coastline of Gujarat was a nice surprise. Miles of fish drying - bumlas to be specific, windmills, and boat building dotted the 2000+ kms. Boat building was a treat to watch. From small fishing boats to big dhows that go all the way to the middle east and Africa were built completely out of wood and without a single drawing!! We hunted down a boat architect in Veraval named Narayanbhai and he gave us useful insights. The framework of the boat is out of 'bawal' wood and the skin is Malaysian teak. The length of the boat is measured at the bottom of its belly. 65 footers are usual fishing boats while 135 footers are big dhows that can go all the way to the Middle east and beyond 135 footers they come in Cargo category. The skin is fixed to the framework with iron bolts and nails and they are the first to give way. Stainless steel does not work at all with salt water and wood as it does not grip the wood and within a couple of voyages have to be replaced.

Junagadh was another pleasant surprise. This fortified hilly town still has its old charm intact within its fort walls. The layers of jain, buddhist, hindu and muslim culture over the centuries are well preserved and still used.

Food in Gujarat was no problem at all. Khichdi and chaas was available everywhere. Now and then we indulged in the spicy kathiawadi food. Fafda was the only available breakfast (we did not find Poha anywhere) and Jain dharmasalas were the cheapest options for night stay. Marzban had to be changed to Mahesh at few places.

After Jamnagar we turned towards Kachch via Bhachau and it was a completely different region. It is only fair that Kachch should be described in a completely separate post